How CB Works

Corrosion Block is a very unique product,  and is one of the few products for the prevention and treatment of corrosion that actually works.   Customers who try it, won't use anything else.

From the manufacturer:  "Corrosion Block is a clean fluid that actively protects metal using advanced polar bonding chemistry.  Synthetic additives in Corrosion Block completely penetrate corrosion cells…replacing the (water) salt water which is then allowed to evaporate. 

Corrosion Block’s hydrophobic film remains to further protect the metal acting like an “OFF SWITCH” for corrosion." Other uses:  battery terminals,  electronics, cleans and protects plastic & rubber materials on boats, cars and rv's, protects fishing rods, lawn & garden equipment and hundreds of other items.

USAzincs.com   a leading online superstore for marine zinc anodes in South Florida,  sells the product to it's boat and yacht owners, charter boat captains, boat yards etc. and they are absolutely thrilled with the product and the way it works to save equipment and machinery. You may visit their online superstore at:  www.USAzincs.com

The manufacturere also says, " Corrosion Block’s non-toxic, non-greasy atmospheric barrier protects metal surfaces for up to 18 months. It can be sprayed, brushed, or wiped onto marine electronics, batteries, circuit panels, standing rigging, fishing gear, inboard and outboards, and is compatible with plastics or rubber component found on your boat. Being “Pro Active” about corrosion control is the best way to protect your marine investments."

                                       Uses For Corrosion Block products

Corrosion Block has hundreds of uses. Based on feedback and conversations with  customers,  below are just a few of the thousands of uses for this incredible product.  

        • battery connections on cars, trucks, boats and equipment
        • electrical connections on electronics, motors & equipment
        • coat metal that is exposed to the elements, to stop corrosion
        • spray outboard engines, inboard engines and i/o engines to fight salt & corrosion
        • coat boat trailer leaf springs, wheels, bearings, and other trailer parts 
        • spray lawn mowers, garden equipment, tools
        • protect outdoor air conditioners, heat pumps
        • protect swimming pool pumps and equipment
        • protect fishing rods, reels etc.
        • to clean and detail the rubber and plastic parts on vehicles, and boats
        • protect boat trailers
        • use grease and spray on boat lifts and their components
        • protecting engines, metal & plastic on motorcycles, scooters and bicycles
        • keeping zippers and closure fixtures working properly
        • grease used on wheel bearings and boat, rv, auto lubrication jobs
        • and literally thousands of other uses for this incredible product

                                             

Read the article below written by Mike House,  from Sportfish Hawaii,   after he fully tested Corrosion Block on his outboard engine, and compared it to a competitor's product:

"OK, enough technical jargon.  Does the stuff work as well as they say?  I can say without any hesitation that the answer is an unequivocal yes.  Hawaii is a particularly good environment for corrosion to begin with, and the ocean here is even better.  Top that off with a couple of outboard engines, and the recipe for corrosion is complete.   Using the Sportfish Hawaii test boat, a 25-foot Whaler with twin Evinrude 150 HP outboards, I began with a simple spray of a different product all over the powerheads.  The product was one of the other ones usually found on the shelf near Corrosion Block, and came recommended by an outboard mechanic.

I was told by a couple of different mechanics that spraying the powerheads is a good idea to protect them, but the downside is the resulting build-up makes for a tough job when it is time work on the engines again.  I was also warned to not get any spray into the electrical components such as the magneto as it might burn them out.  Heeding this advise, I sprayed the product on and inspected a few days later.  Sure enough, there was a gummy build-up and I was glad I had no work to do on the motors that day.

I then ran the boat.  The spray did an adequate job of protecting the engines until then, but I noticed when I returned to the boat a day after running it that it began to burn off.  After running the boat a few more times and spraying the product on, I found myself going through about a half can every time, and having to re-apply it almost every time I used the boat.   The gummy build up got into several corners, making a bit of a mess, but the protectant kept disappearing as though it has been washed off.

Then came the Corrosion Block test.  Without cleaning anything, I sprayed CB on the powerheads.  Four days later, after feeling the thickness of the spray and checking for build-up, I sprayed more all over the powerheads, waited a few minutes, and it felt the same as it did before I sprayed the second time.  I then ran the boat, and took a look again.

Not certain if I needed more product, I sprayed the engines again, replaced the covers, and let time and the ocean air do its thing.  For three full weeks I did not remove the covers of the engines.  I ran the boat hard for anywhere from 10 minutes to a few hours, returned to the slip and washed the boat down without looking at the powerheads.  No spray, no wash, no inspection. After thee weeks, all seemed well, so I left it for another eight weeks, “running it hard and putting it away wet.”

After eight weeks (a total of 11 without any further application), it was time to inspect for damage.  There was none.  The same thin layer was still present over most of the engine surfaces, no corrosion was evident anywhere, and no white powder was visible in the gaskets.  The electrical connections were clean and secure.  All that was present was a thin layer of protection.

To say I was shocked when I first lifted the covers is an understatement.  Anyone who has owned a boat in Hawaii knows you can’t just leave your engines for over two months without doing some maintenance and expect them to look like they came out of the factory.  But that’s what happened.  Now, the engines were in good shape to begin with as they were just overhauled a couple of months prior, but the ocean air in Hawaii wreaks havoc on anything it can get its hands on and I took a chance in putting Corrosion Block to the test for so long.  Some of my tools, by comparison, contained in a plastic tool box in the forward cabin, were rusting at an alarming rate during the same period of time.  I had to clean them up and apply some Corrosion Block to them.


The bottom line is you get what you pay for.  For those concerned about the price (which really isn’t a whole lot more than the other spray products), consider the effectiveness of the product.  The goal is corrosion protection, so if the item you are trying to save lasts longer, you’ve saved a ton of money in not having to replace it. It also won't ruin plastic or paint, and it stops rubber from drying out, so you save money, and time, on tedious repairs. 

But those are the obvious savings.   Savings that aren’t so obvious are in the application and usage.  Because Corrosion Block is non-conductive and the thin film layer never builds up, each application lasts longer. A typical 12 oz. can lasts more than three times as long as other products just in application alone, and depending on how it is applied, the manufacturer claims it can last up to 18 months on a single application.  Of course, wipe downs and washed areas will need reapplication more frequently, but it won’t take much to take care of those areas.  Imagine the savings you can achieve by applying a little at a time to areas that need it most instead of continually applying greasy buildup products that dissolve quickly.

It’s also good for the environment.  Corrosion Block wipes down easily and comes clean with a little soap and water.................... Corrosion Block is virtually non-toxic, the spray can contains no CFC’s, "